Well, the trip is finally coming to an end. Finished the workshop yesterday, which was very successful despite hiccups with the internet access. The groups have all been good and this one lived up to that. Despite being on the edge of a typhoon the previous day and many areas of the city being flooded, just about everyone turned up. I was secretly hoping they wouldn’t as after getting up at 3.45 for a flight and long drive I was feeling pretty shattered. But it was once again a testament to the spirit of the Filipino people that they not only made it they enjoyed it as well.
Mara and I stayed in Cagayan de Oro for the night and had a sleep in until 7am which is quite a change from the other days of this trip. We went out to a local seafood restaurant on the bay at CdO. Had a great Filipino style seafood platter with grilled fish (lapu lapu), shrimp, calamari, crab in coconut milk and barbecued pork, and of course, rice. I tried for a glass of wine, but of course it wasn’t available. There were spirits on the menu, including gin, so I asked for a gin and tonic – no gin mam. I ended up with a beer. Not sure why but in many restaurants here they have bottles on display, but not for sale. Weird. Halfway through the meal, a major movie star arrived with his entourage. We’d seen him earlier in the day at the airport so I knew all about him. His name is Robin something. And he was quite well known, but was arrested for illegal firearm possession and spent several years in jail – which would be unusual here where every airport has a sign “please surrender your high powered firearms”. Anyway he is on the comeback trail and is now involved in a safe sex campaign which is winning him kudos. All the people at my table lined up to have their pictures taken – very exciting! We finished the meal with halo halo – a traditional dessert of jelly cubes, ice cream, sago, almonds, and ice shavings and coconut milk. There goes the waistline.
Travelled back to manila today and staying at a very nice hotel prior to my departure on Saturday evening. Hoping to fit in a visit to the fitness centre (waistline), followed by shopping, and then a massage and facial in the afternoon (at my own expense for any work people reading this) before flying out for an all nighter back to Melbourne where I really wish I had time to see my Mum who is recovering from a knee replacement while I was away. The Philippinos are very big on family, and it’s made it extra hard to be away at this time.
Friday, November 27, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Rain, and more rain
We are marooned in Cebu due to the effects of a typhoon over Mindanao. Hoping to fly out in the morning to Cagayan de Oro – flight leaves at 5.30am so thank goodness my body clock is still really on Australian time. Apparently there is extensive flooding in CDO so not quite sure what we will find there. The last workshop is timed to start at 9am, then we fly back to Manila on Friday. (PS made it to a very soggy CdO)
While we were waiting at the airport we ran into a couple of AusAID people. They are here for 30 days working on a new initiative on disabilities. Not sure if I could do a 30 day trip.
Visiting the Philippines has been a great experience. The people here are so warm and friendly, and they seem to take everything in their stride. The queue for refunds at the airport was a classic example. Not a cross word to be heard. The traffic is another example. People routinely cut in on other drivers or wander across roads, but it never seems to cause an aggressive reaction. The other drivers just slow and let them through. There’s lots of horn blowing but it seems to be more of a “do you know I’m here” variety than a “get out of my way”. You never get the impression that other drivers are actively trying to run you down, although it is pretty hairy out there. Pedestrian crossings are everywhere but are mostly ignored; although one of our drivers explained you had a better chance of cars giving way to you if you were a young and pretty female.
Road rules appear to be quite flexible. The rule seems to be is ok to pass anything at anytime if it’s slower than you. You just give a beep on your horn and off you go.. In Los Banos the other day the two lanes each way were totally clogged in one direction so everyone in faster vehicles pulled into the opposite direction lane to form a three/one system. Who needs lights? The intersections are controlled by traffic police who frantically wave their arms in complex gestures that appear to mean something to the drivers but were totally incomprehensible to me.
Driving to Los Banos was interesting. It’s about two hours south of Manila, mostly on 8 lane dual carriageway which suddenly ends and you are on a narrow two lane road, with houses built right to its edge. While still on the toll way you get glimpses of modern housing estates with large, modern McMansions that would make most Australian housing estates look unimpressive by comparison. The contrast between these and the main streets of Los Banos is incredible. There is a warren of shacks seemingly propping each other up, each with a shop in front.
We had another good workshop today. People seemed to pick up the idea pretty quickly. It seems as though they just needed the confidence to get started using the website. It was encouraging to see that one group that we trained a few days ago is already back on and using the site. We had a good mix of senior and junior people today. This works well as leaders quickly cotton on to how the website can help them and the younger ones are the doers.
Driving back to the hotel last night there we passed the usual crowds of students finishing school for the evening. Schools here run two shifts morning until about 1pm and then evening to about 8pm. It’s very odd to see the groups of uniformed students lining up for their snacks and jeepneys home at that time of night.
Snacks in the Philippines are mini-meals. We have morning snacks at the workshops as well as lunch. They range from pasta with tomato and cheese sauce and garlic toast, to sticky rice parcels and fresh mango, and today’s offering of an empanada and a cassava flan. I prefer the snacks to the main meal at lunchtime which is usually something fried and rice. Today it was deep-fried chicken (think KFC) and rice. Vegetables don’t feature very often; and the drink is always coke. Even in the remoter places we’ve been to, there are huts selling “Coke at the right price” with the displayed bottles looking as though they are filled with weak tea. These often sit next to another hut advertising “Load na dito” which means “load up here”- mobile phones. It’s certainly true that the communication tool of choice is the mobile phone.
While we were waiting at the airport we ran into a couple of AusAID people. They are here for 30 days working on a new initiative on disabilities. Not sure if I could do a 30 day trip.
Visiting the Philippines has been a great experience. The people here are so warm and friendly, and they seem to take everything in their stride. The queue for refunds at the airport was a classic example. Not a cross word to be heard. The traffic is another example. People routinely cut in on other drivers or wander across roads, but it never seems to cause an aggressive reaction. The other drivers just slow and let them through. There’s lots of horn blowing but it seems to be more of a “do you know I’m here” variety than a “get out of my way”. You never get the impression that other drivers are actively trying to run you down, although it is pretty hairy out there. Pedestrian crossings are everywhere but are mostly ignored; although one of our drivers explained you had a better chance of cars giving way to you if you were a young and pretty female.
Road rules appear to be quite flexible. The rule seems to be is ok to pass anything at anytime if it’s slower than you. You just give a beep on your horn and off you go.. In Los Banos the other day the two lanes each way were totally clogged in one direction so everyone in faster vehicles pulled into the opposite direction lane to form a three/one system. Who needs lights? The intersections are controlled by traffic police who frantically wave their arms in complex gestures that appear to mean something to the drivers but were totally incomprehensible to me.
Driving to Los Banos was interesting. It’s about two hours south of Manila, mostly on 8 lane dual carriageway which suddenly ends and you are on a narrow two lane road, with houses built right to its edge. While still on the toll way you get glimpses of modern housing estates with large, modern McMansions that would make most Australian housing estates look unimpressive by comparison. The contrast between these and the main streets of Los Banos is incredible. There is a warren of shacks seemingly propping each other up, each with a shop in front.
We had another good workshop today. People seemed to pick up the idea pretty quickly. It seems as though they just needed the confidence to get started using the website. It was encouraging to see that one group that we trained a few days ago is already back on and using the site. We had a good mix of senior and junior people today. This works well as leaders quickly cotton on to how the website can help them and the younger ones are the doers.
Driving back to the hotel last night there we passed the usual crowds of students finishing school for the evening. Schools here run two shifts morning until about 1pm and then evening to about 8pm. It’s very odd to see the groups of uniformed students lining up for their snacks and jeepneys home at that time of night.
Snacks in the Philippines are mini-meals. We have morning snacks at the workshops as well as lunch. They range from pasta with tomato and cheese sauce and garlic toast, to sticky rice parcels and fresh mango, and today’s offering of an empanada and a cassava flan. I prefer the snacks to the main meal at lunchtime which is usually something fried and rice. Today it was deep-fried chicken (think KFC) and rice. Vegetables don’t feature very often; and the drink is always coke. Even in the remoter places we’ve been to, there are huts selling “Coke at the right price” with the displayed bottles looking as though they are filled with weak tea. These often sit next to another hut advertising “Load na dito” which means “load up here”- mobile phones. It’s certainly true that the communication tool of choice is the mobile phone.
Monday, November 23, 2009
I've lost track of the days
It's that part of a trip when I can no longer remember what number day it is. I know it is Tuesday because yesterday was a workshop day. All went well and the venue at PCARRD was excellent. A great group to train again, although it was a bit daunting when everyone of them had a PhD. Dr Patricio Faylon opened the workshop which I was not expecting. I didn't think it was that high level.
After the workshop there were a couple of hours of meetings at IRRI, and a tour of the rice museum which was fascinating.
Both PCARRD and IRRI are located in Los Banos which is in the hills about two hours from Manila. It was affected by the typhoons and our driver, Serafin, was telling us that there were still many houses and streets that are flooded.
Had my first ride on a trike on Sunday, thought the diesel fumes were going to kill me! The whole time we were weaving through the traffic the drive was texting - amazing.
We drive back to manila today and then fly south to Davao.
Had a nice night out last night with Debbie Templeton from ACIAR who is also at IRRI. She took us to a local square full of restaurants and we had margheritas and seafood - best meal I've had here.
Talking of food, it's breakfast time - I wonder if I will try the garlic rice today? Maybe not!!
After the workshop there were a couple of hours of meetings at IRRI, and a tour of the rice museum which was fascinating.
Both PCARRD and IRRI are located in Los Banos which is in the hills about two hours from Manila. It was affected by the typhoons and our driver, Serafin, was telling us that there were still many houses and streets that are flooded.
Had my first ride on a trike on Sunday, thought the diesel fumes were going to kill me! The whole time we were weaving through the traffic the drive was texting - amazing.
We drive back to manila today and then fly south to Davao.
Had a nice night out last night with Debbie Templeton from ACIAR who is also at IRRI. She took us to a local square full of restaurants and we had margheritas and seafood - best meal I've had here.
Talking of food, it's breakfast time - I wonder if I will try the garlic rice today? Maybe not!!
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Cabingtan
Visit to farmer trialling protected cropping systems at Cabingtan, in the mountains behind Ormoc City.
The structures are built from bamboo and timber and covered in plastic and held down by fishing net. The winds up here are very strong and the area is often badly affected by typhoons. Normally tomatoes only grow about 60cm high; you can see that these are a lot higher than that. Noel, the farmer, is also trialling soil testing to control the amount of fertiliser he uses. He has reduced the amount of fertiser needed significantly without affecting the quality of the plants. Normally fertiliser is leached from the soil by the heavy rain,which falls frequently. The structures also help to reduce pests, such as the long nosed beetle, which we found in the conventional control area.
Noel is also helping local farmers with structures. One is using rejected steel water pipe to build his structures.
Photos
School on the road between Bay Bay (VSU) and Cabingtan. It's a child-friendly school that is 'achieving brilliance in character'. The schools here are all beautifully maintained and often painted in bright colours or with slogans like this.
Schoolchildren all wear uniforms which are so clean and neat - quite a feat when you realise that most of them live in traditinal bamboo huts with either grass or tin roofs.
One of the more incongruous sites I've seen is a bamboo hut with thatched roof with a display of conventional roof tiles out the front for sale.
Day 4
Finally got some internet access! Yay! Have been trying to use a mobile broadband thing which refuses to work for me - very frustrating!
Back in Manila after a day touring a tomato protected cropping farm in the hills at Cabintan - very remote, but interesting. Then a long drive back to Tacloban and onto a flight to Manila - which was delayed because the Presidential plane was landing. They close the airport for 15 mins either side so 30 mins spent circling. After a day of being bitten by ants and sinking in mud, I arrived at the hotel thinking longingly of nice hot bath,only to find the room only has a shower.
Discovered I'm a city girl at heart so happy to be back in the land of flushing toilets, running water, soap, and even hairdryers. Maybe they will even have coffee? VSU only had packets of 3in1 - a mix of Nescafe,sugar and milk powder - yuk!
VSU campus was lovely. Situated right on the sea it was a bit like a resort. The building we held the workshop was brand new and very impressive - until I visited the toilets - then i found out why I'd been given a roll of toilet paper on arrival.
I asked if I could wash my hands at lunchtime which caused great consternation and the kitchen was cleared and a packet of laundry detergent produced.
Driving through the hills this morning I found that most people take advantage of the rain to shower - at least the children do.
Off on another long car drive to Los Banos tomorow. Quite a different part of the country.
Back in Manila after a day touring a tomato protected cropping farm in the hills at Cabintan - very remote, but interesting. Then a long drive back to Tacloban and onto a flight to Manila - which was delayed because the Presidential plane was landing. They close the airport for 15 mins either side so 30 mins spent circling. After a day of being bitten by ants and sinking in mud, I arrived at the hotel thinking longingly of nice hot bath,only to find the room only has a shower.
Discovered I'm a city girl at heart so happy to be back in the land of flushing toilets, running water, soap, and even hairdryers. Maybe they will even have coffee? VSU only had packets of 3in1 - a mix of Nescafe,sugar and milk powder - yuk!
VSU campus was lovely. Situated right on the sea it was a bit like a resort. The building we held the workshop was brand new and very impressive - until I visited the toilets - then i found out why I'd been given a roll of toilet paper on arrival.
I asked if I could wash my hands at lunchtime which caused great consternation and the kitchen was cleared and a packet of laundry detergent produced.
Driving through the hills this morning I found that most people take advantage of the rain to shower - at least the children do.
Off on another long car drive to Los Banos tomorow. Quite a different part of the country.
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